
Put a few marker pins in place to mark this. Measure the position of these two corners from the bottom of the design wall (or the nearest drawn line.) Average these measurements and use it as the measurement/line for the bottom edge. Next, firmly pull the bottom corners down and out. I insert my pins right where the binding meets the body of the quilt, angling them away from the interior. Since this is the easiest side of the pinning, start with a long side. Be sure to put some tension left to right, but don't wear yourself out. Starting at the top, use your securing pins to pin the quilt along a horizontal line, stretching it left and right as you go. If your wall is not gridded, you'll need to take measurements from the edge, use a laser leve l, etc. It's much easier toīlock quilts on a design wall, ra ther than the floor. (See resources at the end of this article.) For now, I'll tell you about my current process, which utilizes myĭesign wall, with its subtle grid. Her ideas cut down on the measuring, so I'll definitely be trying some of them myself. She uses a laser level and the long plastic panels that are meant to be the vanes of vertical blinds.

You can add one of these to your design wall, however, you'll need to spend a good bit of time ensuring that each line is perfectly straight and square. There are gridded versions of flannel and interfacing, as well as gridded fabrics like gingham. (This is so handy I almost want to tell you to take your design wall apart and redo it!) Barring that, there are a few variations you might try. This shadows through just enough for me to reference it. Using a permanent marker, I drew a large grid on the insulation board before covering it with white flannel.

My design wall works quite well for this. This is where some sort of predrawn grid comes in extremely handy. You may find two colors helpful.Īll of this is only valuable if you can measure accurately and ensure the squareness of the blocked quilt. A way to ensure long straight lines - laser level, metal yardstick, or a grid drawn on your pinnable surface. The process involves stretching and pinning the quilt, then steaming it and allowing it to dry.įlat pinnable surface - design wall, carpeted floor, or cardboard cutting board (like the ones sold in fabric stores.) It only works on natural fibers, so the use of cotton or wool batting is required. Blocking is a method of reshaping textile items.
